Not All Wool is Created Equal.....

and 8 brands that are doing it right!

As we approach the winter months, anyone living ( or traveling) in colder climates will be looking for warmer clothing. From sweaters to base layers, most affordable options on the market are polyester or synthetic textile based. The problem with these materials is that they are, essentially, plastic, require harmful chemicals to produce and to dye. These plastic fabrics and dyes are linked to allergies, some contain chemicals like BPA and are, of course, really bad for the environment… yes even recycled polyester is not a good choice for clothing from a toxicity perspective.

If you want to keep warm, and stay safe and closer to nature: wool is one of the best alternatives. But, Not all wool is created equal.

Unbeknownst to me until a few years ago, conventional wool is usually treated with formaldehyde, chlorine and a plastic based coating if it is “ machine washable wool”, not to mention synthetic dyes and even moth proofing agents

Organic wool: a cut above.

Organic certified wool comes from sheep that are raised according to organic farming practices. This means

• Sheep graze on organic pastures where synthetic pesticides nor fertilizers are allowed

• Raised without antibiotics or growth hormones

• The entire supply chain is traceable and transparent, meeting global organic certification standards (such as GOTS or IVN Best).

Beyond Pesticides and Fertilizers: Specific CHEMICALS NOT ALLOWED IN ORGANIC WOOL, that can be found in conventional wool:

• Mulesing technique is not allowed (this is a cruel practice still common in some countries to avoid fly larvae from drilling themselves into the sheep’s meat, literally eating them from the inside… Between 15% and 20% of lambs that undergo this practice annually bleed to death on the meadows. In conventional wool, if mulling is not performed, pesticide baths are the alternative. However neither Mulesing nor pesticide baths are allowed in GOTS nor IVN certified organic wool. How do they avoid flies? Well, sheep from Argentina’s Patagonia area do not have issues with these flies, and thus do not need any of the above mentioned. For wool coming from other areas, GOTS wool producers implement an integrated management plan focusing on prevention and careful monitoring.

• Organic wool is cleaned and processed without chlorine, formaldehyde, or harmful dyes.

Bottom line: organic certified wool is processed without toxic dyes, bleaches, nor synthetic chemicals. Because no harsh chemicals are used, organic wool is less likely to cause skin irritation and is, hands down, the purest form of wool available.

What about Superwash finish/ washable wool?

A note on “SUPERWASH”: this is an environmentally taxing treatment, that soften the untreated merino wool fibers and makes them machine washable. Traditional superwash involves chemical treatments, often using chlorine and a polymer coating, that are not allowed in GOTS-certified products, however there are some “ superwashing” tecnics allowed by GOTS ( this includes EXP process: This is a chlorine-free process that uses non-toxic salts and requires less water and Plasma process: This process uses only electricity and air to modify the wool fibers)

Other certifications

GOtS certification is still the gold standard, but other certifications that are better than conventional:

• The Responsible Wool Standard (RWS): focuses specifically on ethical sourcing of wool

• Permits the use of pesticides, but only under strict controls. RWS guidelines require farmers to minimize their use to the “absolute minimum” necessary to control pests.

• Integrated pest management (IPM) plan:Farmers must develop and implement an IPM strategy, which focuses on long-term prevention of pests through a combination of techniques

• Waste minimization: Application methods must be designed to reduce waste and pollution.

• Record keeping: Farmers are required to maintain detailed records of all pesticide use.

• Protection of water and biodiversity: The RWS standard as a whole encourages progressive land management to protect soil health, water, and biodiversity from the negative impacts of farming chemicals.

2. Woolmark

• Verifies products are made with 100% pure new wool that meets the quality standards of The Woolmark Company.

• Does not regulate chemical use on farms nor how sheeps are treated- instead focuses on the finish product.

• Does allow mulesing

• Does allow the use of chlorine

Bottom line: not the best certification if you are concerned with chemicals

3. Oeko Tex Certification

• OEKO-TEX certified wool requires rigorous testing to ensure it is free from over 100 harmful substances like pesticides, heavy metals, and banned dyes, and meets specific limit values for many more. The certification process involves a company-wide audit and a material sample analysis by an independent laboratory to ensure the wool complies with the strict standards across all stages of production

• Does allow mulesing

• Does allow super wash with chlorine, as long as no chlorine is detectible in the final product. ( chlorine is used and then neutralized during the multi-step process, it does not remain on the finished fiber. Since no residue is left behind in the final product, it can still pass OEKO-TEX testing, even though toxic byproducts called absorbable organic halides (AOX) were created during manufacturing. )
  

SOME SUSTAINABLE WOOL CLOTHING COMPANIES FOR THE FAMILY

This year I decided to look for brands that were doing it “ right” and boy, did I find them! These 8 companies are raising the bar for what “cozy” should mean: clean ethical and safe enough for most sensitive skin…. in other words: 3 Little Plums Approved!

There, of course, might be other companies out there! Please leave any in the comments! These are companies I have purchased from in the past or I was able to verify met my criteria.

1. Nui Organics (Limited time 25% discount code for 2025: “ 3littleplums25”)

• Merino wool and silk mix for baby, children and women

• Also offer (re) nui program: where you can buy and sell preloved Nui Organic items

• Wool comes from Certified organic sheep farms which have fewer sheep per acre and are not subjected to mulesing.

• Their product portfolio includes garments certified to the following standards:- GOTS Global Organic Textile- Bluesign® for sustainable manufacturing- OEKO-TEX® 100 for harmful substances- OEKO-TEX® Detox to Zero for wastewater quality

• the added silk adds softness (especially for extra sensitive skin) strength (great for allowing it to last longer for kids who can be tough on layers)

2. IKSPLOR (receive 10% off with my link

Baby, kids and adult wool clothing

• Owned by two moms ( sisters!) and based out of Jacksonhole WY

• non-mulesed Merino wool

• Superwashed? Yes Total Easy Care (TEC) treatment, making it machine washable and dryer-friendly without compromising its natural benefits.They use an oxidative pre-treatment followed by a special polymer application that prevents felting and shrinkage by masking the wool’s natural scales. No PFAS or synthetic fibers (like polyester) are used.

• Organic? No but wool is sourced through the Responsible Wool Standard (RWS) Program and dyed using Oeko-Tex® Standard 100 certified dyes

3. Wild Haven Wools 10% off with this link and code WELCOME10 )

• Mom owned

• Designed to fit for 3x longer than other brands - aka “growth-spurt proof”

• Sewn in small batches in the USA ( Alaska and California)

• Wool from New Zealand, their manufacturers are RWS, ZQ and OEKO-TEK 100 certified.

• Superwashed with a sustainable/ chemical free method

• All products have Oeko Tex 100 and PFAS free certifications